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Renate Stauss

Associate Professor, Program Coordinator for Fashion Studies

  • Department: Communication, Media and Culture
  • Graduate Program(s): Global Communications
  • Track(s): 
    Fashion

Professor Stauss joined The American University of Paris in 2013. As a lecturer in Fashion Studies, Cultural & Critical Studies she has been working at a number of universities in London and Berlin since 2003, at Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, Goldsmiths College, Esmod, and the Berlin University of the Arts. She was part of the faculty at the Royal College of Art in London in the Department of Critical Studies for ten years. Following her studies in Fashion Communication (BA) and Communication, Culture and Society (MA) Stauss completed her PhD on泭Dress as Therapy: Working with Dress on the Self in Therapeutic Settings泭(University of the Arts London).

The focus of her teaching and scholarship lies on the sociology and politics of fashion and dress, including the following subjects: relationships between dress and identity, fashion under socialism, the emotional and sensory impact of dress, the role of dress in political protest, fashion for a sustainable world, and fashion education 泭how we learn and teach fashion. Renate has published in the area of fashion studies, fashion theory and pedagogy. Recent publications included book chapters in泭(2023)and泭泭(2022). She is the co-founder of泭泭and泭泭 The fashion education podcast and platform for connection, research and development, and educational consultancy.

Current research interests include:

  • fashion and politics
  • the role of dress in political protest
  • the perception and potential of fashion
  • the emergence of fashion theory
  • fashion education 泭how we learn and teach fashion

Research Areas and Areas of Expertise:

  • fashion theory
  • cultural history of fashion (1900)
  • sociology of dress and fashion
  • fashion and politics
  • sustainability in fashion
  • dress as therapy
  • fashion education


Education/Degrees

  • PhD, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK
  • MA Communication, Culture & Society, Goldsmiths, University of London, UK
  • BA (Hons) Fashion Communication, Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design, London, UK

News

  • I am currently organizing the泭泭Facilitated by The American University of Paris, France, online event, 10 October 2024 (with Prof Franziska Schreiber)
    • The Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education wants to create connections and actions within and across different fashion learning cultures and contexts. It was founded in 2019 as a participatory and outcome-oriented space and a series of conferences focused on the learning and teaching of fashion. It aims to explore and illustrate the diversity and complexity of the field and the practices of fashion education, and to foster a greater understanding of its pasts, presents and futures methods, values and didactic, pedagogic and epistemological questions creating a global exchange to inspire mutual learning, collaborative research and shared action.
  • The rich and inspiring contributions and proceedings of the last泭泭are open access. Watch and listen to some of the most inspiring voices in and around fashion education: Tanveer Ahmed, Ben Barry, Zowie Broach, Sunny Dolat, Matthew Drinkwater, Kimberly Jenkins, The Malvestidas, Sarah Mower, Alistair ONeill, Sandra Niessen, Yvonne Ntiamoah, Dilys Williams and many many more.
  • . I recently launched a podcast on learning and teaching fashion (with Franziska Schreiber).
    • Fashion is a great teacher泭because it provides a fantastic lens to learn about the world and its people, about history, politics and culture. Join泭Renate Stauss泭and泭, professors of fashion theory and fashion design in Paris and Berlin to discover the most inspiring voices in fashion education, their take on the how and why of learning and teaching fashion, their doubts and hopes, their lessons from fashion. Episodes include interviews with:泭,泭,泭,泭泭and泭,泭,泭,泭.

Publications

  • (2023)泭Looking Like a Woman, Feeling Like a Woman, Sensing the Self: Affective and Emotional Dimensions of Dress Therapy in: Parkins, Ilya & Filipello, Roberto (eds.)泭Fashion & Feeling: The Affective Politics of Dress.泭Cham: Palgrave Macmillan, pp. 153176. (book chapter)
  • (2022) Dress as Therapy: Working with Dress in Psycho-medical Settings 泭Between Control, Cure, Care and Creative Play in: Ankele, M., De Wyngaert, E., Ferreira, L. M., K繹lmel, M.-J., Lamot, Y. H., Stauss, R.,泭Mirror Mirror: Fashion & the Psyche. Veurne, Belgium: Hannibal Books, pp. 133151. (book chapter)
  • (2021) The Doubters, or, To Love Fashion Is to Doubt Fashion: An Impossible Interview in:泭Vestoj: The Journal of Sartorial Matters.泭Issue No. 10: On Doubt, pp. 93105.泭
  • (2021) R.I.(a)P.: On Fashion, Branding and Irony 泭An Interview with Professor Wowo Kraus in:泭Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion Industry.泭Vol. 13, Issue 3, pp. 486501.泭
  • (eds.) (2021)泭The Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education The Proceedings.泭25 September 2020, The American University of Paris,泭digital event, online publication. (with Franziska Schreiber)泭/sites/default/files/download/Digital%20Multilogue%20on%20Fashion%20Education%202020_The%20Proceedings.pdf
  • (2020) Mapping Fashion Education: Kontext, Dimensionen und Zuk羹nfte in:泭Design & Bildung.泭Vol. 3, pp. 11829. (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2020) The Deceptive Mirror: The Dressed Body Beyond Reflection in:泭Fashion Theory.泭29 May泭(with Lucia Ruggerone)()
  • (2020) Passing as Fashionable, Feminine and Sane: Therapy of Fashion and the Normalisation of Psychiatric Patients in 1960s US in:泭Fashion Theory.泭Vol. 24(4), pp. 601637. ()
  • (2019) What Fashion is Not (Only) in:泭Vestoj: The Journal of Satorial Matters.泭Issue No. 9: On Capital, pp. 5575. ()
  • (2017)泭Dress as Therapy: Working with Dress on the Self in Therapeutic Settings.泭PhD Thesis, London: University of the Arts London.
  • (2015) Fashion Cultures Revisited: Book review' in:泭Costume.泭Vol. 49(1), London: Maney Publishing.
  • (2014) The wetsuit is not fashion: A Conversation with Heidi Julavits in: Heti & Julavits & Shapton (eds.)泭Women in Clothes.泭London: Penguin,pp. 405406.
  • (2010) Interview with J繹elle Chariau in: Chariau, J繹elle (ed.)泭Drawing Fashion: A Century of Fashion Illustration.泭Munich/London: Prestel, pp. 2023.
  • (2009) Mode in: Peretz, Pauline (ed.)泭New York: Histoire, Promenades, Anthologie & Dictionnaire.泭Paris: Robert Laffont, pp. 11641165.
  • (2008) Symposium Review:泭The Death of Taste: Unpicking the Fashion Cycle泭in:泭Fashion Theory泭Vol.12(2), June, pp. 261266. (with Ane Lynge)
  • (2008) 'Die zivile Uniform als symbolische Kommunikation: Book Review' in:泭Costume.泭Number 42London: Maney Publishing, pp. 195196.
  • (2008) 'She Shines' in:泭Fat.泭Issue A, pp. 98103.
  • (2006) 'Erwin Wurm's 59 Positions' in:泭Fashion in Film Festival.泭(catalogue), London: FFF, p. 40.

Podcasts

  • (2020 )泭Fashion is a great teacher: The fashion education podcast.泭泭(Concept, interviews and editor)
  • (2020) Dilys Williams on her reality and utopia of fashion education and enabling students to fly Episode 1 of泭Fashion is a great teacher泭 The fashion education podcast by Renate Stauss & Franziska Schreiber , 21 September, interview: Renate Stauss (56)泭
  • (2020) Valerie Steele on experiential learning, the importance of methodology and whacking the myths of fashion Episode 2 of泭Fashion is a great teacher泭 The fashion education podcast by Renate Stauss & Franziska Schreiber, 16 October (34)泭
  • (2020) Zowie Broach on fashion as a privilege and a drug, on freedom and wisdom Episode 3 of泭Fashion is a great teacher泭 The fashion education podcast by Renate Stauss & Franziska Schreiber, 29 December, interview: Renate Stauss (59)泭
  • (2021) Alistair ONeill on fashion as agency泭and泭the importance of understanding fashion through its making Episode 4 of泭Fashion is a great teacher泭 The fashion education podcast by Renate Stauss & Franziska Schreiber, 3 March, interview: Renate Stauss (47)泭
  • (2021) 泭Fashion is a great teacher泭 The fashion education podcast by Renate Stauss & Franziska Schreiber, 26 May, (54)
  • (2021) 泭Fashion is a great teacher泭 The fashion education podcast by Renate Stauss & Franziska Schreiber, 29 September, (47)
  • (2022) 泭Fashion is a great teacher泭 The fashion education podcast by Renate Stauss & Franziska Schreiber, 19 May, interview: Renate Stauss (47)
  • (2022) 泭Fashion is a great teacher泭 The fashion education podcast by Renate Stauss & Franziska Schreiber, 10 October, (35)
  • (2023) 泭Fashion is a great teacher泭 The fashion education podcast by Renate Stauss & Franziska Schreiber, interview: Renate Stauss, 8 June, (49)
  • (2023) 泭Fashion is a great teacher泭 The fashion education podcast by Renate Stauss & Franziska Schreiber, interview: Renate Stauss, 21 August, (58)
  • (2024) Sandra Niessen on De-Fashion: From Fossil Fuel Fashion to a Fashion Pluriverse, Multilogue Moments: Provocation at泭The Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education 2023 泭De-Fashioning Education,泭A Critical Thinking and Making Conference, Berlin,泭24.1.2024,泭泭(28)
  • (2024) Sunny Dolat on Reconsidering Efficiency as a Priority, Multilogue Moments: Provocation at泭The Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education 2023 泭De-Fashioning Education,泭A Critical Thinking and Making Conference, Berlin,泭31.1.2024,泭泭(18)
  • (2024) Anjana Das & Mayank Mansingh Kaul on Rethinking Made in India, Multilogue Moments: Provocation at泭The Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education 2023 泭De-Fashioning Education,泭A Critical Thinking and Making Conference, Berlin,泭7.2.2024,泭泭(18)
  • (2024) Otto von Busch & Christina Moon on Fashion & Vitality, Multilogue Moments: Provocation Dialogue at泭The Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education 2023 泭De-Fashioning Education,泭A Critical Thinking and Making Conference, Berlin,泭14.2.2024,泭泭(23)

Conferences & Lectures

Conference Organisation

  • (2024)泭泭泭concept, organisation & host of conference, Berlin University of the Arts, Germany, co-facilitated by The American University of Paris, France, hybrid event, 10 October 2024 (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2024) Symposium on Fashion Communication for Socio-Ecological Transformation (20 April) hybrid / 勛圖tv (co-organisation with Elsa Darlington, Fiona Schlumberger, Kathryn Galloway, Michelle Doyle, Maddie Czarnik, Sara Wynn) Alumni & Students at 勛圖tv)泭/symposium-fashion-communication-socio-ecological-transformation
  • (2023)泭泭concept, organisation & host of conference, Berlin University of the Arts, Germany, co-facilitated by The American University of Paris, France, hybrid event, 15-16 September 2023 (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2023) DeFashion Test Kitchen Student Think Tank of The Digital Multilogue on Fashion Education 2023 x Fashioning Education concept, Berlin University of the Arts, Germany, co-facilitated by The American University of Paris, France, hybrid event, 15-16 September 2023 (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2022)泭 concept, organisation & host of conference, facilitated by The American University of Paris, France, online event, 12 October 2022 (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2022)泭泭concept & organisation, facilitated by The American University of Paris, France, online event, 5 October 2022 (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2022) Transformation Through Fashion Education? Towards Systemic Change Symposium, Fashioning Education series, Berlin University of the Arts, online event, 19 May (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2021)泭泭concept, organisation & host of conference, facilitated by The American University of Paris, France, online event, 12 October 2021 (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2021) The End of Fashion Education? Towards New Beginnings Symposium, Fashioning Education series, Berlin University of the Arts, online event, 26 May (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2020)泭泭concept, organisation & host of conference, facilitated by The American University of Paris, France, online event, 25 September 2020 (with Franziska Schreiber)

Conferences, talks, lectures泭(recent, selected)

  • (2023) Decentering Fashion Education 泭Fashion in 3D: Decolonizing, Deconstructing, Decentering ZonaModa Interntaionl Conference, University of Bologna/Rimini, 20 October, invited chairing of conference session
  • (2022) The Politics of Fashion Education: Developments, Discriminations and Dreams invited talk, Fashion Politics Series, Parsons Paris & London College of Fashion, online event, 21 January (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2021) Dont / Look in the Mirror! 泭The Gendering Politics of the Dressing Mirror conference paper, Fashion Tales 2021: Politics Through the Wardrobe, Modacult Centro per lo studio della moda e della produzione culturale,Universit Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, Milan / online event, 1719 June 2021 (with Lucia Ruggerone)
  • (2021) The End of Fashion Education? Towards New Beginnings invited lecture, Design Pedagogy Symposium, School of Form at SWPS University Poland in collaboration with the Center for Philosophical Technologies at Arizona State University, US, online event, 20 May 2021 (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2021) Dress Therapy 泭Between Control, Cure, Care and Creative Play invited lecture, Central Saint Martins, London, online event, 17 February.
  • (2021) Dress as Therapy: Working with Dress in Psycho-medical Settings 泭Between Control, Cure, Care and Creative Play conference paper, Curative Things: Medicine / Fashion / Art, facilitated by Leeds Arts University, online event, 12 February.
  • (2021) Everything Is Constructed: Of Fashion, Ambiguity and Interstices invited talk, Hochschule Hannover, University of Applied Sciences and Art, Germany, online event, 26 January.
  • (2020) Fashion Education: Dimensions, Contexts and Futures invited lecture, Annual Conference of the Network Fashion Textile, Germany, online event, 26 September (with Franziska Schreiber).
  • (2019) Lost in Reflection: Clothes, Mirrors and the Self paper delivered at: The Annual Conference of the Association for Art History, Brighton, UK, 6 April (with Lucia Ruggerone).
  • (2018) Self-fashioning: Using Foucaults Technologies of the Self to Analyse Fashion invited lecture, New York University, London, 15. November.
  • (2018) Passing as Fashionable, Feminine and Sane: Therapy of Fashion and the Normalisation of Psychiatric Patients in 1960s US Passing: Fashion in American Cities, The Courtauld Institute of Art, London, 5 May.
  • (2017) In the Land of Mirrors: V礙toth矇rapie in France. On Forced Forms of Self-reflection and Image-based Notions of a Fashionable Self Revisiting the Gaze: Feminism, Fashion & the Female Body. Chelsea College of Arts, UAL, London, UK, 28 29 June.

Workshops泭(recent, selected)

  • (2024)泭professional development workshop for fashion educators, 17 September, Berlin Center for Higher Education, Germany (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2024) Values in Learning and Teaching Fashion invited professional development workshop, 25 June, Fashion Department, Saint Martins College, University of the Arts London, UK (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2024)泭professional development workshop for fashion educators, 13 March, Berlin Center for Higher Education, Germany (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2023)泭professional development workshop for fashion educators, 26 September, Berlin Center for Higher Education, Germany (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2023)泭professional development workshop for fashion educators, 28 March, Berlin Center for Higher Education, Germany (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2022)泭泭invited workshop at Face Summit, Central Saint Martins, 14 October (with Marteena Mendelssohn & Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2022) Fashion Education Retreat, professional development retreat for fashion educators, 14-15 September, Gutshof Sauen, Berlin Center for Higher Education, Germany, (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2022) Vestimentary Protest: Dress as Visualized Resistance and Agency invited workshop, International Week, FH Bielefeld, University of Applied Sciences, Germany, online event, 2 May.
  • (2022) Vestiment瓣rer Protest: Kleidung als visualisierter Widerstand und Handlungsmacht泭invited workshop, Berlin University of the Arts, Germany, Film Costume Design, online event, 24 January.
  • (2021) Vestimentary Protest: Dress as Visualized Resistance and Agency invited workshop, International Week, FH Bielefeld, University of Applied Sciences, Germany, online event, 4 May.
  • (2020/1) I love it! Werte/n in der Designlehre (Values and Evaluation in Design Education) concept, professional development workshop, Berlin Center for Higher Education, Germany, online event, 25 November 2020 & 22 January 2021 (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2019) Fashion Education Retreat, two-day professional development workshop for fashion educators, 30 September1 October, Gutshof Sauen, Berlin Center for Higher Education, Germany, (with Franziska Schreiber)
  • (2019) Fashion Education: Learning and Teaching Fashion in Theory and Practice professional development workshop for fashion educators, 1 April, Berlin Center for Higher Education, Germany (with Franziska Schreiber)

Panels, Public Commentary, Media Coverage & Juries泭(recent, selected)

  • (2024) invited external member of the reader appointment committee, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, 18 March
  • (2023) invited external member of the professorial appointment committee, Centre for Sustainable Fashion, London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, 9 October
  • (2022) Global Perspective: How might we create fashion that includes repair mechanisms for the planet, people, culture and the economy? Think Tank invited participant, 202030 The Berlin Fashion Summit, Germany, online event, 1 March.
  • IJFS (2022) Introducing International Fashion Scholars 101 International Journal of Fashion Studies, cross-platform campaign (Facebook, Instagram, Twitter), 18 January (public profile)
  • Drake, Kitty (2022) Im never pleased with myself. I always think I could do better, that Im lazy, that I dont make enough effort Karl Lagerfeld in Stack Magazine, online resource, January,泭泭(review of article)
  • Nike (2022) Nike Cultural & Societal Trends 泭Expert interview, with Sally Lohan, 24 January. (Interview)
  • Stauss, Renate (2022) Mode-Sch繹pfung in:泭Junge Kirche.泭01/2022, pp. 3031. (Interview article)
  • Cosmo / WDR (2021) Sweatpants, WDR, Radio Cosmo, 4 January. (radio interview)
  • Echtzeit / DLF Kultur (2021) Sturm und Zwang: Wir k繹nnen nicht anders, Deutschlandfunk Kultur, 16. Juni 2021, 16-17 Uhr,泭泭(radio interview).
  • Hergt, Kerstin (2021) Die Unerh繹rten in:泭Dresdner Neueste Nachrichten.泭3 July.泭泭(Interview article)
  • Idris, Rem矇e (2021) New Modes of Learning in:泭The Lissome, online resource, January,泭泭(interview)
  • No禱l, Aya (2021) My Tutor Doesnt Even Know What a Dankmeme is! On Age and Experience in Fashion Education in: Granary 1, online resource, 29 July,泭泭(15.8.2021) (Interview)
  • (2021) Re-Defining Fashion Culture: From Fast Desires to True Pleasures and Beauty panelist,泭202030 The Berlin Fashion Summit, Germany, online event, 22 January,泭
  • (2021) Fashion Culture Think Tank invited participant, 202030 The Berlin Fashion Summit, Germany, online event, 7 January.
  • (2020) Jury member of the competition Bielefelder Modepreis (fashion prize) FH Bielefeld, University of Applied Sciences, Germany, 25 January.
  • Stauss, Renate (2020) Fashion in Times of Covid-19: Chanel, Clinical, Creative: Three Face Masks Show the Complexities of Fashion 勛圖tv Learning Laboratory, Episode 9, 12 May,泭/digital-campus/explore-discover/aup-at-home/learning-laboratory-renate-stauss泭//泭泭(12.5.2020)
  • (2019) Jury member of the competition Transparenz in der Modebranche (Transparency in Fashion) Loveco, Berlin, Germany, 26 August.
  • (2018) Mode & Diversit瓣t: Mehr als nur ein Marketingtrend? (Fashion & Diversity: More than a Marketing trend?)泭member of panel discussion, Ethical Fashion, Prepeek Powered by Fashion Changers, Kraftwerk, Berlin, Germany, 3 July.

Affiliations

  • Member of The International Council of Museums, UK
  • Member of Network Fashion Textile, Germany
  • Member of Culture(s) de Mode, France
  • Member of The Union of Concerned Researchers in Fashion

Research Areas

  • fashion theory
  • cultural history of fashion (1900)
  • sociology of dress and fashion
  • fashion and politics
  • sustainability in fashion
  • dress as therapy泭
  • fashion education

Awards, Fellowships and Grants

Grants (recent)

  • 2024: John H. Lewis Jr. Faculty Development Fund泭(Symposium on Fashion Communication for Socio-Ecological Transformation (team bid)
  • 2020-2024: Faculty Development Grant, The American University of Paris
  • 2023: Berlin University of the Arts, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2023)
  • 2023: Network Fashion & Textiles, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2023)
  • 2023: 勛圖tv, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2023)
  • 2022: Senate Berlin, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2022)
  • 2022: Network Fashion & Textiles, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2022)
  • 2022: Teaching & Learning Centre, 勛圖tv, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2022)
  • 2022: Culture(s) de Mode, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2022)
  • 2021: Senate Berlin, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2021)
  • 2021: Network Fashion & Textiles, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2021)
  • 2021: Fashion Seeds, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2021)
  • 2021: Teaching & Learning Centre, 勛圖tv, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2021)
  • 2021: Culture(s) de Mode, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2021)
  • 2021-2023: Einstein Foundation, grant for Einstein Circle Fashioning Education (team bid)
  • 2020: The Mellon Grant, 勛圖tv, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2020)
  • 2020: Teaching & Learning Centre, 勛圖tv, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2020)
  • 2020: Network Fashion & Textiles, grant for conference organization (The Digital Multilogue 2020)